We've all had them, right? Those days where your hair doesn't do what you want it to do, or you excitedly prepare it for a style overnight and in the morning it's a disappointing mess. I'm talking bad hair days - and I've had loads since I've been on my journey. But as I get deeper into my journey, my mentality continues to change and my confidence continues to grow, even when I don't feel I'm looking my best.

Let me digress. Before I began properly taking care of my hair, I would straighten it pretty much daily. Yes, daily! And if I was going out in the evening, I'd often run the flat iron over it again. I couldn't imagine leaving the house without straightening my hair or being seen in public with hair that didn't look sleek and perfectly in place.

Since I've been on my journey I've slowly been cutting out the heat. I've cut down to flat ironing once a week on washdays, and I've pledged to ban blowdrying in my quest to achieve armpit length by December 2016. But that's not good enough if I want maximum length retention, so I've been experimenting with heatless styles on air-dried hair - cutting out heat completely (I'll be writing a post about that soon).

Looking back on my previous heat habits, I cringe in horror at my daily flat ironing and weekly blowdrying.  But my straighteners were my armour - they protected me from 'bad hair days'.

For the last few months I've been wearing my heatless pin-curl out style. Because I install the pin-curls at night, I can never be sure how they will turn out until I take them out in the morning. Sometimes they come out great, other times they don't. In the beginning, that was a scary thought but as time goes by, I've learned to just work with what I've got and accept it in the name of healthy hair!

I live in London and it's notorious for its bad weather. As soon as I step outside, my curls become limp and lifeless because of the rain or wind, or my straight hair becomes frizzy. A few years ago I would have wanted to run and hide because a bad hair day meant a bad day.

But the more I just get on with things and the less precious I am about my hair, the more confident I become - even on days when my hair isn't behaving. I've realised that the only person my misbehaving hair bothers is me. Most people don't even know I'm having an off day!

I've always known that hair should not define how we feel about ourselves. But only now am I really believing it for myself. Hair should not be the make or break of my confidence. I've started to embrace the 'bad hair days'. I've learned that there is no excuse to let my hair bring me down, and the more I face the world while not feeling my best, the more confident I become.

Am I the only one that could spend all day browsing the web for hair care tips and motivational videos, inspirational progress pictures and product reviews? There's such a massive community online with thousands of women willing to help each other achieve the hair they've always wanted.

My interest in hair has only strengthened over the last years and I wanted to share some of the wonderful books, blogs and videos that have enriched my knowledge and kept me inspired for all this time.

1. Book: The Science of Black Hair by Audrey Davis-Sivasothy
This was the first and only book I ever bought on hair care. It has absolutely everything in it, from moisture/protein balance to sample regimes, correct techniques and even children's hair. This is a perfect book for those just starting out as it covers all the basics and then some.

2. Video: My Hair Growth Journey by HealthyAfroHair 
Watch Julie's inspirational photo journey as she grows from damaged neck-length hair to healthy mid-back length. She also shares hair techniques and advice on her channel. This is my 'go-to' video for when I need a dose of motivation!

3. Website: Blackhairinformation.com
You might want to put aside a couple of hours for to peruse this site. It contains tons of info for both natural and relaxed ladies, including ingredients info, hair stories and hair trends.

4. Blog: Just Grow Already! 
Documenting her journey to waist-length relaxed hair, blogger Jen has now transitioned to natural. A personal website, she blogs about her washday routines, favourite products and style experiments. Collaborating with lots of other bloggers and hair enthusiasts, Just Grow Already! is a great source of information.

5. Forum: Hairlista
This fantastic forum has thousands of supportive members who love to talk about... hair! It's a lot like a social networking site as you can add friends (add me!), write your own blog posts, share pictures, and join groups and challenges. The forums are great for asking questions and getting very helpful answers.

6. Blog: The Natural Haven
Written by an actual scientist, The Natural Haven puts a different spin on hair care. Debating topics such as whether castor oil actually makes hair thicker, this fascinating blogger publishes her own lab experiments on hair, helping to answer the popular questions and de-bunk the common myths.

There are so many more links I could share with you, but I thought I'd start with a few first.

The end of the year is nigh and I've already set my hair goals for 2016. But now is also a good time to start evaluating my product regime and decide which ones I'll be banishing and which I'll be bringing into next year.

Reunited with moisturised hair!

I recently wrote about my sudden bout of parched hair. My strands had become so dry, rough and unresponsive to my moisturising attempts and it was really frustrating me. I suspected that my problem was due to porous hair or product buildup, but my consequential clarifying and apple cider rinses were in vain.

What I didn't mention in my last post was that I've also been experiencing major tangles after washing. So I had a long think about how I might be able to return to the soft, moisturised and well-behaved hair I had recently been enjoying. Ideas flooded into my mind, from following a complicated regime to buying new, expensive products that had been ineffective in the past.

Then I remembered something so simple - a technique I used very early on in my hair journey that I had forgotten about.

Deep conditioning on dry hair!

For some reason it seems to allow the conditioner to absorb into the strands better. The results were soft, moisturised and tangle-free hair. I applied my favourite Organic Root Stimulator conditioner in sections using an applicator brush to ensure full coverage, slapped on a plastic bag with my Look Great Heat Wrap, and rinsed after an hour. 

But why does DC'ing on dry hair yield better results? The main theory is that when the hair is wet, it absorbs water which leaves less room to accept the conditioner. By applying the product to dry hair, the hair is able to absorb more conditioner than it usually would.

It's important to note that this method of deep conditioning probably works best on hair that has been recently washed. Applying conditioner when you have product buildup may not produce the best results since the conditioner won't penetrate as much. 

I definitely feel like DC'ing on dry hair gives better results! It's amazing that such a simple tweak has bought my hair back to its proper moisture levels. Mission complete!

To infinity (or armpit length - whichever comes first) and beyond! (Image source) 2016 is fast approaching which means my first year of hair growing is coming to an end! I've successfully achieved shoulder length hair - a milestone I haven't seen for a few years due to maintaining my bob style. But now is where the real challenge begins. I'm hoping to enter a territory I've never experienced before: armpit length (APL) hair. I've booked in for a BKT and much-needed trim on 12 December. I'm hoping I don't have to have too much snipped off, but I also know that starting the New Year with fresh ends will put me in the best position to retain length. Considering how much my hair grows in one year, I would expect to reach APL by the end of the 2016. Many of the ladies on Long Hair Care Forum state that it took them about nine months to get from shoulder length to APL. With my giraffe neck and long back, I'd add a few months onto that. I'm fully aware that getting passed shoulder length is one of the most challenging milestones, so I've devised a regime that I'm going to follow in the hope that it helps me reach my goal. My length retention regime for the next year: Continue to wear heatless styles in the week, keeping the use of the flat iron to a minimum Air dry or blow dry on cool only  - I blow dry my hair weekly so this rule will eradicate the extra heat from my regime  Start taking biotin pills daily - I have achieved faster growth with biotin in the past Deep condition with hair in six sections - switching from four to six sections has made a big difference! Moisturise nightly and maintain hair porosity levels with apple cider vinegar rinses Continue to have hair keratin treated every 12 weeks or so

Below is my current length. I'll be updating my  length progress pictures every few months so stay tuned!



How long did it take you to go from shoulder length to armpit length? I would love to hear your tips.

For the last few months I've been happily rocking my pincurl-outs - that's putting my hair in pin curls at night and removing them in the morning to achieve curly or wavy hair.

Having finally worked out how to get the best results, the heatless style has allowed me to stay away from the straighteners and retain more moisture.

But all of a sudden my hair seems to be rejecting all my moisturising efforts. My hair feels good straight after applying a product, but by the next morning, it's so dry I could probably light a match on it (not recommended). Even after deep conditioning, my strands are still screaming out for moisture.

So why is my hair behaving so badly? Why does the moisture seem to evaporate from my strands? I have two theories:

Theory one: my hair is porous

It's been said so many times, but the excess use of heat tools can dry out the hair, damaging the cuticle and causing the strands to become porous. Porous hair means moisture can easily be injected into the strand (hence why my hair feels great straight after applying product), but this moisture escapes the strand just as quickly. I believe that my hair is simply showing the ill effects of my previous heat obsession. The damage caused by my straighteners has resulted in holes along the hair shaft - preventing the hair from holding onto moisture and resulting in dry locks.

Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is a great way to bring the hair down to normal porosity levels. Because of its slightly acidic pH level, ACV can help close cuticles, which reduces porosity and encourages a healthy shine. I'm going to dilute a small amount of AVC in a big jug of cool water. Once I've finished rinsing out my deep conditioner, I'll pour the solution over my entire head, wring, and towel dry.

Note: If you decide to try this too, be prepared to smell like a fish and chip shop. But also be assured that the smell does not linger once your hair is dry!

Theory two: my hair needs clarifying 

Layering on the products every night will eventually result in product buildup, meaning anything you put on the hair will sit on top and not be absorbed. While I wash my hair weekly, I use a sulfate-free shampoo which isn't enough to thoroughly cleanse the hair. It's recommended that once in a while, the hair should get a deep cleanse with a clarifying shampoo. Essentially, this type of shampoo removes all oils, product and dirt from deep within the strand. It will leave the hair squeaky clean and ready to accept the conditioning effects of products.

My action plan overview:

• Pre-shampoo with Philip Kingsley's Elasticizer to protect the hair prior to washing (and as a last attempt to inject some moisture)
• Shampoo with a clarfiying shampoo
• Deep condition with my Look Great Heat Wrap 
• Rinse out, and finish with an ACV rinse
• Apply leave-in and air dry 

Will I correct my hair's moisture balance? Be sure to stay tuned for my results!

It's tempting to hang on to dead, splitting ends for the sake of length, but trimming your bad ends will do wonders for the overall look and feel of your hair.

It's been six months since my strands last saw the scissors, and my hair is definitely screaming out for a trim. But it's not always easy to tell if your hair needs a snip. For example, an uneven hemline doesn't always mean you're experiencing breakage - sometimes it just means different sections of your hair are growing at different rates.

There are many types of split ends, some more obvious than others. The chart below shows the many varieties, but unless you're in bright light or have long hair where you can see your ends, it's not always that simple.

There are many types of split ends

So how else do you know if it's time for a trim? I've gathered together my top three tips to watch out for:

1. You suddenly start seeing little hairs on the floor, on your shirt or in the sink.
   Finding short hairs all over the place means your ends are breaking off. The ends of your hair are the oldest and weakest parts, and therefore are more prone to breakage. Get rid of those dead ends by getting a trim. It will improve the look of your hair and leave you with healthier, stronger ends.
   
   
2. You begin to dread wash day because of the dreaded tangles. Has your hair started tangling at the ends? When ends become old and tapered (as opposed to fresh and blunt), they're more prone to knotting with each other. Instead of spending hours untangling and risking further breakage, let's reach for those scissors!
   
   
3. You've been at the same length for a while. Hair is always growing, but while we're longing for length, it may not feel like it's growing fast enough. Sometimes though, we really do get stuck at the same length for an extended period of time. It's not that the hair isn't growing, it's that the ends are breaking at the same rate of growth, thus creating an illusion of plateau. If this sounds familiar, set yourself up for length retention by starting with fresh ends. To track your hair's length progress, be sure to snap a photo ever few months.

As time goes on, it's becoming more and more apparent that I'll never be able to reach my length goals if I don't file for divorce from my flat iron.

So for the last few months I've been experimenting with pincurls as my go-to heatless style. While it's been a lot of trial and error, I feel like I've finally mastered the style.

In the hope that I might be able to help someone else, I've gathered together the top 5 tips that have helped me to create the perfect pincurls.

1. Hair should be moisturised but not wet

I find it better to apply my moisturiser to the entire head as opposed to applying to each small pincurl section. I've realised that my hair doesn't need a lot to be sufficiently moisturised, so less product creates smoother, looser and more defined waves. Damp hair or too much product creates frizzy curls with super shrinkage - not necessarily a bad thing, but not what I'm aiming for.

2. Use oil to take down the curls

When removing the pins from the hair, I've learned that applying a thin layer of oil to my fingers helps to protect against frizzing. It also gives the hair a nice shine.

3. Keep the pincurls in overnight

My hair needs time to set, so leaving the pincurls in overnight gives my style a better chance of lasting all day. Of course, the curls will drop as time progresses, but by the end of the day, I still have a nice wave in my hair. I once tried keeping the pincurls in for just a couple of hours, and results were not good - most of the hair lost its curl immediately!

4. Don't comb or brush the hair

Instead, I gently separate the curls with my fingers. Brushing will cause the curls to frizz and lose definition.

5. Pay attention to the back of your head  

When I first began pincurling, I'd section my hair into four (one parting down the middle and one across) and work on one section at a time. As one of my partings was down the middle, this technique resulted in me pulling sections of hair to each side. This resulted in curly sides and straighter hair at the back. I've since adapted my technique, working in rows by starting at the nape and working my way upwards. This way, every section of my hair gets equal attention.

It's been a year since I decided to start actively growing my hair. In that time, I've had three hair cuts but I'm still pretty happy with the length progress I've made!

Now that I'm weaning myself off the heat tools, I think next year will reap even better results for my length progress. 2016 here we come!

Sept 2014

Sept 2015 - Hemline is only uneven in pic, although I do need a trim!

Heat is the enemy for many when they're on a quest for healthy, longer or thicker hair. The excess use of heat tools depletes moisture, damages and ultimately thins or breaks your hair. Knowing this, I still regularly flat iron my hair. It's a bad habit I haven't yet busted.

However, lately I've been experimenting with pin curls, bantu knot-outs and braid-outs. I do the styles at night after moisturising and in the morning when I take them out, I look a mess, consequently turning to my straighteners. So in my attempts to get away from heat tools, I end up straightening my hair - a paradox I'd rather avoid.

Time consuming and frustrating, mastering a new style is not always easy. For those in a similar predicament, I've decided to share my inauspicious attempts to perfect these heatless styles. I'll document the good, bad and the ugly outcomes of my trials. If you're feeling anywhere as frustrated as I am, hopefully seeing someone else go through trial and error will keep you motivated.

I'm not giving up until I can master a style that works for me!


ABOVE: My first attempt at pincurls. Clearly, I hadn't quite mastered the technique of creating the curl! The result was just as disappointing - some areas turned out wavy while I had other random straight sections. In the end, I used the straighteners to curl the rest of my hair. Pretty contradictory considering I'm trying to stay away from heat!

ABOVE: Another attempt - not too bad this time, although it seems like only the ends curled.

ABOVE: My best outcome yet - I had soft curls / waves that lasted the entire day. It's taken me a good few weeks to perfect the technique of rolling the hair and pinning it down. I'd say the first two weeks were hit and miss, but I persevered and now I no longer wake up with the dread of wondering how my hair is going to look.

Update: A guide on how I achieve my perfect pincurl style!